If you missed the first part of our adventure, you can find it here.
Timing is Everything
Just as we were leaving Burqu for the afternoon, the sky began to shower us with an unexpected desert rain. I couldn’t help but think how rare and precious such moments might be in the desert. Jordan had already surprised me with more rain than I anticipated. It turns out that rain in this region is highly seasonal. Interestingly, in Arabic, the word for winter, “shita,” is also used to refer to rain. It became clear to me that the Jordanian rainy season is quite brief. When I mention summer rains to my Arabic teachers, they usually assume I’ve made a mistake. They can’t quite grasp that other places experience rain during the summer months.
We hurried to our car as the rain picked up, and made our way back toward the road. On our return, we noticed what looked like a pathway and saw several locals driving around the desert, along with a few animals. There were small piles of white sand marking a makeshift road. It was a smoother route compared to the one we took, though perhaps it lacked the excitement of our journey.
Heading back to Azraq, we didn’t have much on our agenda except to catch whatever we could before our dinner plans. The drive was uneventful as there is essentially only one road in and out, making the scenery feel somewhat familiar. I’ve grown to appreciate the remote beauty of the desert, even though we weren’t as far from our starting point as one might think.
Exploring Qasr Azraq
We arrived at Qasr Azraq just before sunset. Situated on the edge of Azraq town, Qasr Azraq is an impressive fortress with a rich history. Most notably, it served as a residence for T.E. Lawrence during the planning of the Arab Revolt. Interestingly, the Arab Revolt began in this unassuming desert town. Although Wadi Rum gets more tourist attention for its “Lawrence of Arabia” fame, Lawrence himself didn’t seem to be a significant figure here until tourists began exploring and the locals saw an opportunity.
The castle was nearly empty by the time we arrived. A large group was leaving, and the ticket seller seemed to take a break, giving us the place to ourselves. The Qasr’s interior features a vast yard encircled by buildings, with one prominent structure in the center. It felt like an adult playground, as there’s nothing in Jordan to stop you from exploring as you please. While this freedom is exhilarating, it comes with risks since the structural integrity of some areas might be questionable.
My friend, an experienced climbing instructor, was having the time of his life, scaling towers and walls, far more adventurous than I dared to be. His enthusiasm was contagious, and I found myself inspired to explore, albeit cautiously.
During our exploration, we met locals on a field trip, exchanged stories, and were warmly welcomed to Jordan—a common and heartfelt gesture we enjoyed throughout our stay. We even managed to get a favorite group photograph inside the Qasr, which became a cherished souvenir alongside a whimsical “Iraqi Border” sign we spotted earlier.
A Bit of a Detour
As our playtime at the fortress came to an end, it was time to head to dinner. Our evening plans took us to a place one of our group members had long wished to visit. The destination was an old British field hospital, converted into a hotel and restaurant by the Royal Conservation Center. Trusting the recommendation of his travel guide author, “Jenny,” he had planned our visit.
However, finding the place wasn’t straightforward. We attempted to ask locals for directions but were often met with confusion as we tried to describe a hospital turned hotel. Eventually, someone in our group smartly called the establishment for precise directions.
The building itself was fascinating, filled with photos and books detailing its history and the broader history of Jordan. Outside, an old British Land Rover Jeep stood as a testament to its past. Although staying in the hotel exceeded our budget, it seemed like a fantastic place for an overnight stay if circumstances were different.
Surprisingly, the hotel was run by Chechens who had moved to Jordan seeking refuge. Their community in such a remote location intrigued me. The dinner promised a taste of Chechen cuisine, a welcome change from our usual Jordanian fare. The dining experience was a buffet, offering a variety of salads, meats, and vegetables.
The food was good, but not spectacular. I tried everything but left thinking I hadn’t quite gotten my money’s worth. It was still a delightful departure from our usual meals, and I would consider staying or dining there again if I visit under different circumstances.
For my friend who had so enthusiastically suggested the place based on his guidebook, the experience fell short, leading us to trust our instincts more as seasoned residents of Jordan.
Where We Stayed
Azraq isn’t a big town, with only three hotels to choose from: the upscale Azraq Lodge, the mid-range Azraq Hotel, and the budget-friendly Zubi. We chose Zubi, which turned out to be a charming, albeit modest, place to stay. Our accommodations were basic but clean, offering everything we needed for a good night’s rest. The detachable toilet seat we found in the sink was a quirky touch, adding to the character of the place.
The proprietors were incredibly kind, and the hotel served our needs perfectly. We weren’t in Azraq for luxury but for exploration, making Zubi a fitting choice.
Nightlife in Azraq
There isn’t much in terms of nightlife in Azraq. We found an open café where we enjoyed the evening, my friends smoking shisha while we all sipped tea and recounted our day. It was a typical Middle Eastern night, tranquil and satisfying. We ensured not to tire ourselves out too much as there was a lot left to explore the next day, including castles, an abandoned city, and elusive wetlands.
Advice for Travelers
Getting Around: You definitely need a car. Car rentals can be arranged in advance, and having a 4WD or a vehicle with high clearance is essential for reaching places like Burqu. Google Maps is a handy tool for navigating, although some paths are tricky to locate.
Dinner: Reservations are required for dinner at Azraq Lodge. You can call ahead from a Jordanian number or from abroad. They also offer rooms if you wish to stay overnight.
Hotels: For those on a budget, Zubi is a great option. If you’re willing to splurge, Azraq Lodge offers a more luxurious experience. If you get lost, don’t hesitate to call the lodge for directions, as locals might not always know the place by your descriptions. Azraq isn’t a bustling town, so booking in advance might not always be necessary, but it’s good to plan ahead during busy seasons.
