Sitting alone in a café in Jordan, I was deep in thought, trying to plan my holiday travels—a holiday from holiday, actually, since I was on break in Jordan while studying Arabic. After booking my tickets and sharing my plans to visit Turkey with friends, one of my old acquaintances from Jordan insisted I visit Haydarpasa Gar. Why? Because it’s the starting point of the Hejaz Railway. Having already visited the Hejaz Station in Jordan, I knew I couldn’t miss this.
My friend M, who lives in Turkey, didn’t realize he was about to become my unofficial tour guide.
What is the Hejaz Railway?
The Hejaz Railway, built over a century ago, spans several countries, connecting Istanbul to Mecca and Medina in modern-day Saudi Arabia. Although some stations, like those in Damascus, have become legendary, they’re now inaccessible due to ongoing conflict. While I couldn’t visit all stations along the line, I was determined to see its origin.
“I want to go to the Asian side,” I told M right after we dropped off my (yet again) lost luggage. Unaware of my true intentions, M agreed, and we wandered through Kadikoy, soaking in the local atmosphere and indulging in food. From the water, you can see the train station; M had no idea that’s what it was. Through the helpfulness of locals, we discovered it was just a short walk from the main ferry terminal.
The train station itself was stunning, albeit surprisingly quiet. A few people were enjoying the nearby restaurant and the coastal scenery. I was captivated by the intricate woodwork and the station’s overall architecture. It remains an active train station, even if it didn’t feel like it during our visit. Some people I’ve spoken to have even used these trains for various destinations within the country. Unfortunately, due to the situation in Syria, the full length of the Hejaz Railway isn’t traversable, and it’s uncertain when, or if, it will be again. Part of me desires to return and explore where else the railway might take me—so much to see, so little time!
There’s a picture of me with my hands in the air—a completely spontaneous moment courtesy of my friend’s creativity. While I look a bit bewildered or as if I’m surrendering, I guess it was all part of the fun he envisioned!
Getting There:
Reaching Haydarpasa Gar is simple. Take a ferry to the Asian side (Kadikoy) and enjoy a pleasant walk along the water toward the station. While there may be bus options, walking is both short and scenic. For the best view of the station, try to secure a good seat on the ferry.
Where to Stay:
Istanbul is full of wonderful places to stay. If you need recommendations, be sure to check out guides to the best hotels in the city.
