I’ve been getting a lot of questions about the current State of Emergency in Ethiopia and what it’s like to travel there. Is it safe? What’s tourism like?
For those who may not know, Ethiopia has been under a state of emergency since October 2016, following a series of protests. While I’m primarily focused on travel, I’d encourage anyone interested in the political aspects to seek detailed information from reliable sources, as the situation is complex and deeply rooted in history.
Tourism Impact:
Since the declaration of the state of emergency, tourism in Ethiopia has taken a significant hit. Many tour companies and individual travelers have canceled their plans, and several governments have issued travel advisories. Before heading to Ethiopia, I wasn’t even aware of the state of emergency myself. It was only when I shared my travel plans with friends that I learned about it, having been preoccupied with news in Turkey, where I had been staying and which was also under a state of emergency.
Military and Police Presence:
I expected to see a heavy military and police presence, but surprisingly, it was minimal. There were occasional police checkpoints, such as on the road between Bahir Dar and Gonder, and some military personnel near villages. Generally, though, I didn’t feel unsafe or restricted. The situation felt less intense than daily life in Turkey, and had no one told me, I might not have known there was a state of emergency. One notable exception is the Danakil area, where a significant military presence is customary due to its proximity to Eritrea and the active volcano, Erta Ale. Travel there requires police escorts, but this is unrelated to the current state of emergency.
Social Media and Internet:
Internet service was noticeably affected. In the capital, Addis Ababa, 3G service wasn’t functioning, although it worked, albeit slowly, outside the city. Social media was generally blocked, with inconsistencies in what and when certain platforms were accessible. While connecting through VPN was possible, the slow internet speeds rendered it nearly useless. Hotel internet services varied widely in speed and reliability, showing no clear pattern.
Tourism Experience:
The tourism industry has clearly suffered. In many cities, like Lalibela and Axum, we were often the only guests at our hotels. This downturn in tourism made operators and touts more aggressive, often leading to inflated prices and uncomfortable situations. In some instances, people tried to cheat us or threatened to strand us if we didn’t agree to higher prices. While Ethiopia is generally an expensive destination, the state of emergency has exacerbated this issue, particularly with prices often quoted in US Dollars.
Should You Go?
Deciding whether to travel to Ethiopia right now is tough. Personally, I found things to be calm, and many other travelers I met experienced no significant issues. The lower number of tourists can make for a more intimate experience with locals, though candid discussions about the political situation are rare due to restrictions. Supporting local tourism is crucial, especially given the economic reliance on this sector during peak seasons.
Practical Information:
If you decide to go, consider flying in with Ethiopian Airlines. They offer excellent service with new aircraft, and flying with them can make you eligible for discounted domestic flights. Although I flew in with Qatar Airways because it was cheaper, I ended up paying more for internal flights, so Ethiopian Airlines might be more cost-effective in the long run.
Overall, traveling to Ethiopia under the current conditions requires careful consideration, but it’s a meaningful way to support the local economy and experience a unique culture.
