One of the most tragic events in the history of the Great Plains occurred in November 1864. A group of 675 cavalrymen spotted the camps of Chief Black Kettle, White Antelope, and Left Hand in the valley below.
Tensions had been escalating between the US Government and Native American tribes. The incorporation of Colorado as a state, the discovery of gold and other valuable minerals, and the intention to shrink Native American land and relocate tribes to reservations all contributed to the conflict. Many Native Americans opposed the unfavorable treaty and refused to move, resulting in continued skirmishes and bloodshed between settlers and Native Americans.
By October, hundreds of Cheyenne and Arapaho had gathered at Sand Creek, on the northern edge of the Arkansas Reservation. The village housed 33 chiefs and headmen from the two tribes. Earlier in November, US military officials met with Cheyenne and Arapaho leaders to negotiate, requesting that the Arapaho move further south within the Arkansas Reservation. Troop movements began converging on Fort Lyon in late November.
Departing Fort Lyon on the evening of November 28th, 675 cavalrymen armed with four 12-pounder mountain howitzers rode towards Sand Creek. At dawn on November 29th, Colonel Chivington ordered an attack, resulting in chaos and horrific bloodshed. Over 230 Cheyenne and Arapaho, including 150 women, children, and the elderly, were massacred, with many bodies mutilated.
Two letters from Captain Silas Soule and Lieutenant Joseph Cramer described the terror of the massacre in detail, prompting an investigation. Captain Soule was later murdered in Denver partly due to his outspoken criticism. In retaliation, Cheyenne, Arapaho, and Lakota forces attacked multiple towns and settlements in Colorado. Congress investigated the incident, with Major Edward Wynkoop interviewing many soldiers present at the attack, describing Chivington as an “inhumane monster.” Governor Evans was removed from office due to his role in the massacre. The Treaty of Little Arkansas labeled the event a massacre and promised reparations, although they were never paid. Chivington, condemned for his actions, was still seen as a hero by some in Denver.
To visit the site, begin at the interpretive center, where knowledgeable rangers provide an overview of the tragic events and the history of the area. Explore the grounds and read postings detailing the war and its aftermath, including boards displaying the letters from Captain Soule and Lieutenant Cramer. From the center, a trail leads to the overlook and monument. While it’s a pleasant walk, it can be challenging in hot weather, so there’s also a road for access.
The actual massacre site, behind trees near Big Sandy Creek, is not open to the public and is reserved for descendants of the tribes affected, as it remains sacred land.
For those visiting, the interpretive center is located near the entrance to Sand Creek Massacre National Historic Site. There’s also a visitor center and education center in downtown Eads at 910 Wansted St, Eads, CO 81036. The visitor center is open Thursday through Monday from 9:00 am to 4:00 pm, except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. Admission is free, and you can get a National Park Passport stamp at the visitor center.
Lodging options near the site are limited. The rural area has few hotels, with the nearest accommodations in Eads, Colorado, at Cobblestone Inn & Suites and Travelers Lodge. More options are available in Colorado Springs, approximately 143 miles away, or Denver, around 183 miles away. It’s a good idea to consider stopping at Sand Creek on a broader road trip.
Directions to the site: From Eads, Colorado, take Highway 96E for about 11 miles to Chivington. Turn left onto Chief White Antelope Way (CR 54) for about 7 miles, then right onto County Road W for 1.3 miles to the park entrance.
