Sometimes, life presents unexpected decisions. One of these moments found us in Jabal Al-Weibdeh, a charming neighborhood in Amman. We gathered to unwind and chat before a friend departed for the airport. The unusually warm March day added to our enjoyment of the area.
After exchanging goodbyes, we began our walk back toward downtown. Anita planned to head home, and we were brainstorming activities when Max suggested visiting the Hejaz Railway station. We all thought it was a splendid idea, and with that, our new adventure began.
Anita had a small car from work, so we made our way to Jabal Amman and squeezed into the tiny vehicle. Navigating out of Jabal Amman proved to be an unexpected challenge. After several failed attempts to find our way using maps and GPS, we decided to ask a local taxi driver for help.
“Is there a way from here to downtown?” Anita inquired.
“Yes, you go that way,” the driver replied, pointing to a one-way street.
“But that’s not allowed,” Anita protested.
“Everything is not allowed,” the taxi driver quipped with a smile.
This exchange taught us the flexible nature of traffic rules in Jordan. However, the real test was navigating the congested downtown streets. The chaotic traffic might seem like an accident waiting to happen, but people were surprisingly courteous.
Relying on a tourist map and a perpetually recalculating smartphone, we raced around the city. Frustration grew as our destination seemed just out of reach, but with some luck and quick driving, we finally parked near what we hoped was the right place.
A sign gave us hope that we were close. After getting directions from locals, we walked up to the station. The area was quiet, with a few children playing nearby.
At last, we reached the Amman Hejaz Railway station! But excitement turned to disappointment when we realized it was closed. Without alternative transport, it seemed impossible to return.
Then, I noticed a small switch on a post. Marlene and I decided to give it a try. Moments later, a head popped out of a window, and after some rapid negotiation (thanks to Anita’s stellar Arabic), we secured a private tour for a few Jordanian dinars.
The station had an abandoned feel, and although it had reportedly operated until two years prior, the train and buildings seemed like relics from decades past. Despite the closed museum, learning the history of the Hejaz Railway was fascinating.
The Hejaz Railway once connected Damascus to Medina, through various other destinations. Completed in 1908, with the Damascus station opening in 1913, the railway was intended to reach Mecca but was halted by World War I. Today, only a few sections remain active, further diminished by the conflict in Syria.
Restoring the railway has been discussed, but little progress has been made. It would be wonderful to see the station operational again one day.
If you wish to visit the Amman Hejaz Railway station, it’s located along King Abdullah Street, a considerable distance from the city center. While some hotel maps feature it, getting there without your own vehicle is tricky. Taxis can be expensive but might be your best option if you’re determined to explore. It’s a worthwhile trip for dedicated travelers.
