Bahir Dar, a charming town nestled on the southern shores of Lake Tana, was my first real taste of Ethiopia after a brief, hectic few hours in Addis Ababa. Like many travelers, my primary motivation for visiting was to see the famed Blue Nile Falls and the monasteries dotting the lake and its surroundings. In truth, my trip was hastily planned just days before, and I found myself tagging along with a friend’s itinerary, unsure of what exactly awaited me.
As it turns out, the allure of the falls and the historic monasteries draws most visitors here. The night we arrived, a local immediately attempted to sell us a tour of these attractions for an eye-watering $320 USD for the two of us—an exorbitant price considering the local economy. He persistently hounded us, even showing up uninvited the next morning, which only added to our frustration.
Determined to find a better deal, we explored Bahir Dar ourselves. Despite its compact size, the town is easy to navigate, especially with our hotel conveniently located near the water. After much haggling, we finally secured a more reasonable tour for about $100 USD total.
Blue Nile Falls
The Blue Nile Falls, one of Ethiopia’s most renowned natural wonders, draw visitors to Bahir Dar, particularly during times when the seasonal dry conditions haven’t reduced them to a mere trickle. Luck was on our side as recent events had restored the falls to much of their former glory, as our guide put it, “Bad for Ethiopia, but good for tourists.”
Reaching the falls was an adventure in itself, navigating some of the country’s worst roads, which were under repair. The route provided a glimpse into rural Ethiopia, showcasing small villages and a simple way of life. Interestingly, we also encountered several trucks full of soldiers, reminding us of the broader state of emergency in the country, although our interactions with security forces were minimal.
There are two ways to experience the falls: by hiking or by boat. We chose to hike in and take the boat back—a perfect balance. The hike was stunning, offering easy terrain and a close-up look at everyday local life. The majestic falls didn’t disappoint, thundering more impressively than we had hoped. Though the surrounding area was muddier than expected, the sight was worth it. As we left the falls via boat, the tranquility of the water provided a serene end to our adventure.
Lake Tana and Monasteries
Lake Tana is home to around a dozen monasteries, though visiting all of them is a task for only the most dedicated enthusiasts. Realistically, two or three will give you a good sense of their architecture and history. The journey to these monasteries by boat is a highlight, offering the chance to see the origins of the Blue Nile and, with luck, spot a hippo or two.
Our guide shared that the local canoes on the lake are nearly unsinkable, capable of even transporting livestock—an impressive feat. We visited a couple of monasteries, and while they began to look similar, the experience was enriched by a local service we stumbled upon. Despite our limited understanding of Amharic, we were warmly welcomed to observe.
The warmth and pride of the local people were evident throughout our visits. Having a guide was especially helpful, not only for navigation but also for insight into the monasteries’ treasures. Though I often felt invisible compared to other tourists, a sense of belonging gradually developed as some locals even mistook me for Ethiopian.
Practical Tips
Reaching Bahir Dar is straightforward from nearby cities like Gondar, whether by road or air. We opted to fly from Addis Ababa, which is often the hub for connecting flights.
Accommodation-wise, we stayed at the Rahnile Hotel, a centrally located establishment that offered mosquito nets—a necessity near the lake. Dining in Bahir Dar can be a delight too; Wawi Pizza, a downtown spot accessed via a slightly precarious staircase, served surprisingly good pizza and local dishes, including delicious fish from the lake.
When booking tours, always negotiate. Prices can vary significantly, but a fair rate typically ranges from 800–1100 Birr (around 40-50 USD). Insist on quotes in local currency to avoid overpaying.
While you don’t need a guide for the monasteries, having one can enrich your experience by revealing hidden treasures. A half-day tour of the monasteries is generally sufficient unless you’re particularly keen on seeing more or visiting further afield.
In summary, Bahir Dar offers a blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and local charm. Whether you’re marveling at the power of the Blue Nile Falls or exploring the serene monasteries on Lake Tana, this destination promises an enriching and memorable experience.
