One of Georgia’s most fascinating sights, David Gareja, is a rock-hewn monastery complex that straddles the border between Georgia and Azerbaijan. It’s also one of the best day trips you can take from Tbilisi.
Location
Nestled about 60 km southeast of Tbilisi (32 km from Rustavi or Gardabani), the David Gareja monastery complex sits on a contentious border with Azerbaijan. Some sections fall under Azeri control, which is marked by fences and patrolled by security forces.
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History
Established in the 6th century by St. David Garejeli, an Assyrian monk, the complex grew under his disciples and saw further expansion in the 9th century under Georgian St. Ilarion. It reached its zenith in the 12th and 13th centuries, becoming closely associated with the Georgian royal family. After the abdication of King Demetre I in the 12th century, it even served as his place of confinement.
The monastery’s decline paralleled the fall of the Georgian monarchy, exacerbated by Mongol invasions and Safavid destruction. For many years, it remained uninhabited or repurposed for military exercises. However, more recently, the monastery has revived some of its monastic traditions and now welcomes both scholars and tourists.
The Complex
David Gareja comprises 13 monasteries spread across a vast area. The Lavra section is still inhabited and includes the monks’ living quarters, making much of it off-limits to visitors. However, a courtyard is open to the public, and with some guidance, you can explore it.
Above the main part of the monastery are additional cave monasteries adorned with beautiful frescoes. The size of the complex is larger than expected, with numerous caves to explore and several buildings housing administrative offices and a gift shop.
Visiting
The site is sprawling, far exceeding initial expectations. While many areas are off-limits due to current monastic use, there is still plenty to see. The main courtyard offers a glimpse into the expansive nature of the place.
One crucial tip is to follow the path behind the complex—it leads to more hidden areas. On quieter days, you might not realize there’s more to see without prior knowledge, as it can be poorly labeled.
During your visit, you might encounter military personnel, given the disputed border location. They are generally just there to monitor, but some parts controlled by Azerbaijan may occasionally be closed. The area’s rugged scenery is breathtaking, so take time to appreciate it.
Be prepared for a lot of walking, some of it strenuous, and bring plenty of water and appropriate footwear.
Getting There
The most convenient way to reach David Gareja from Tbilisi is by mini-bus, which departs daily at 11 am from Liberty Square. The journey takes about 2.5 hours and costs 25 GEL. Touts and locals will guide you to the right mini-bus.
Alternatively, you can hire a taxi for a more flexible, albeit more expensive, option. Ensure the taxi waits for you at the destination.
Additional Tips
– The monastery is still active, so parts might be closed for religious services.
– Don’t miss the higher parts of the complex—there’s more to see beyond the main area.
– Comfortable footwear is a must due to extensive walking.
– Protect yourself from the sun with sunblock and hats, and stay hydrated.
– Pay close attention to transportation schedules; you don’t want to get stranded.
– Be aware of the military presence and border issues, which might cause unexpected closures.
Explore David Gareja for an unforgettable blend of history, spirituality, and natural beauty.
